Hi I'm AL Gracian from Albopepper.com.
Sub-irrigated planters (SIPs) are often referred to as "self-watering" systems.
Also known as wicking beds.
There are various ways to construct them.
Some systems use gravel.
But the system we'll look at today is easier to construct or de-construct and reduces the
overall weight of the planter.
SIPs are great for urban areas allowing you to grow on patios, driveways, decks, balconies
or even rooftops!
Let's make one.
A sub-irrigated system is made up of 5 basic components: A water-tight container, an aeration
screen, wicking media an overflow hole and a fill tube.
The base must be able to hold water, which serves as the reservoir.
It could be a 5 gallon bucket or 30 gallon tote.
Or it could be a raised bed, lined with a non-toxic pond liner.
Retail self-watering containers next have an aeration screen made of perforated plastic.
This barrier separates the growing media from the water reservoir.
The soil is able release excess moisture in the event of a heavy rain.
And the root zone receives air, allowing for respiration & preventing root rot.
We'll use perforated pipes.
Their upper edges will form the aeration screen.
The soil media will slowly absorb water as the plant needs it, pulling it up from the
reservoir through capillary action.
To do this though, a wicking material must connect the reservoir to the soil.
Pieces of cord can serve as a wick.
Or in the case of our SIP bed, narrow bands of potting mix will bridge the gap.
Wicking materials should be highly absorbent and should resist decomposition.
With a water-tight container, our SIP will eventually fill up to the very top.
A waterlogged system will quickly kill your plants.
So we must create an overflow hole on the side wall.
It is slightly below the aeration screen.
Larger systems should have more than one as a fail-safe.
These systems could be covered or left uncovered.
Either way, to directly sub-irrigate them, you'll need a fill tube.
This allows you to pump water directly to the reservoir, filling the system up.
This last component completes your system!
Just fill it with a porous, water absorbing substrate and fertilize as needed.
Potting mix materials work very well, and hold up for many years.
Coir, peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, aged pine bark fines.
These are all good places to start.
Quick tips:
Be sure your SIP is placed on a level place.
Avoid manures that may harbor pathogens.
Many retail, bagged manures and composts contain high levels of salts that may damage plants.
And they have fine silty particles that can reduce pore spacing.
Fertilizing can be done with both synthetics OR organics, although organics tend to offer
a more complete nutrient profile.
Apply all nutrients to the rooting medium, not the reservoir.
This includes liquid feeds.
SIPs work best with seasonal or annual plantings.
Overwintering perennials in sub-irrigated systems may be problematic if the reservoir
freezes over.
So instead of strawberries or blueberries, think: corn, peppers or tomatoes!
Want more details?
Watch my other SIP videos.
Also, visit albopepper.com for all of the latest tips.
Thanks for taking time to watch.
I appreciate your support on my channel.
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And as always, Happy Gardening!
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