Schneider CA Hobby Boss 1/35 scale Building review Part III
Hi everyone and welcome to the third part of this building review about the Schneider CA tank by Hobby Boss in 1/35 scale.
In Part I we assembled the model up to this stage here, in Part II we dealt with the figures, and in Part III we are going to paint and weather the tank model.
The painting guide in the kit suggests two variants. I don´t like the first variant too much, the second one looks much better to me.
It looks much more interesting and it also features some of the actual blue-grey color, which was used to paint these vehicles initially.
For many decades this blue-grey color was a standard paint for various agricultural vehicles.
By the way, this is also the reason why early Wehrmacht vehicles were painted in a similar blue-grey color as well: Producing such paint in large quantities wasn´t too suspicious and later, once the army became official, they simply kept using it into the early years of the war.
Alright, we will base coat the model with blue-grey color and the camo pattern will be simply brushed on. This should work nicely.
We need a hard-edged camouflage pattern here and it will be also framed with these thin black lines. This is a bit tricky to do with an airbrush.
Before we get to priming and painting the model i want to get some paint on this signal shield. We already talked about that in Part I.
This signal shield was used to communicate with the infantry in a very basic way. We improved the look of this thing quite a bit, because it was very simplified in the kit.
I want to paint these red and white sections on the shield first. Then we mask it off and paint the rest of the model.
The base color of the shield is Revell Matt 5 "white".
Now we mask off the area, which is meant to remain white, with some tape. I really like the blue tape by Tesa for that.
It leaves no residue and is not overly expensive. If you want the same quantity of tape with Tamiya tape you have to pay a lot.
Now we can spray on the red color, in this case it is Revell Matt 37 "brick red".
Let´s move on with the primer. In preparation i masked off the rest of the signal shield with some more tape in order to protect it.
We are going to prime the model with black acrylic paint, in this case Revell Matt 9 "anthracite".
A very common question about these paints, which can not be answered, is thinning ratio of these Revell paints in order to make them spray through the airbrush.
It is simply impossible to answer this, because the consistency of these paints is always different. I don´t even know how to describe it.
A good rule of thum is: If the paint would be great for brush painting, then it is also pretty good for airbrushing.
I tend to compare it with the consistency of milk, just a tiny bit thicker maybe. That works pretty well.
Here you can see a paint jar, where i did not thin down the paint yet. It is very sticky.
An exact and ultimate thinning ratio does not exist. Even when you buy them they are not the same. Some are almost ready to use for the airbrush, others are so sticky that the paint would not come out of the jar even if you would remove the lid and turn the jar upside down. It is always different.
The black paint has to be applied everywhere, so no bare plastic can shine through later.
Sometimes a second coat is required.
Normally the covering power of the paint is excellent, so one thin layer is usually sufficient.
The primer is applied with about 1,5 - 2 Bar pressure (21-29 psi)
It is indeed very important to apply a solid coat of the black color everywhere. This is not an easy task when it comes to the running gear, but with a bit of patience and care it can be done.
In general you can reach even such tricky places with your airbrush. Assembling the entire running gear and then painting it works well.
Of course it would have been easier to keep it separated in a way, but painting it all together is better for my work flow.
Now we can apply the blue-grey basecoat. For that i am going to use Revell Matt 79 "blue grey".
The color is not bluish enough, though. I will mix in some blue color by Vallejo Model Air to get the right hue.
It is interesting that one can mix these two paint brands together pretty nicely. It does not work with any paint brand, but these two are compatible.
This time the paint does not have to be applied in one solid coat, it is actually good to let the dark primer shine through in some areas.
The finish will look more lively and we create some simple shading effects.
Now we can paint on the camouflage pattern. I will do it the "old school way", using a brush.
Before i owned an airbrush system i managed to advance pretty far in my brush painting skills. It is still a thing i am fairly good at today.
When it comes to such sharp-edged camouflage patterns i recommend to use a brush. Of course it can be done with an airbrush, too, but you waste a lot of time with masking it all off. It is out of proportion.
You are actually faster with the brush and you have excellent control over the look of the camo pattern.
You have to make sure that your paint is pretty thin, so you won´t get too many visible brush marks. It works better than you think.
We start off with Revell Matt 65 "bronze green".
First i lay down the edges of the camouflage blotch, then i fill in the paint.
If the paint is sufficiently thinned down with water one can not see the individual brush marks on the model later.
Next we use Revell Matt 84 "leather brown".
For the light olive color i brightened up Revell Matt 45 "light olive" with some Revell Matt 5 "white" (85% light olive, 15% white).
The Revell paints have excellent covering power, so one layer of paint should do the job.
Finally i paint on the separating black lines with Revell Matt 9 "anthracite".
Although it may appear to be the case, it is not required to keep the lines perfectly uniform.
Painting on the camouflage pattern with a brush wasn´t very difficult for me. It worked very well. Of course it can be done with an airbrush as well, but the result i got here is good enough.
Next we deal with the detail painting. This encompasses mainly the tracks and the machine guns.
In Part I of this series we glued on the wheels and tracks to the model already. This was the only suitable option for me back then.
One could have kept it separate, which would make the painting of the tracks a bit easier now, but we decided to keep the assembly easy instead.
We have to swallow the bitter pill one way or another. I personally don´t mind it to paint the tracks on the model, it never causes me much troubles.
Keep in mind that we will apply quite a lot of mud on the running gear later, so it is not a tragedy if you don´t manage to paint it all up perfectly. You can hide your mistakes with some mud later.
The machine guns and tracks get painted with a mixture of Revell Matt 8 "black" and Matt 91 "iron".
Especially when it comes to the tracks it is necessary to take care and be patient, because we use a lot of paint in a small area.
The same color can be used for the muzzle of the gun and the cable on the roof.
The lamps get painted with Revell Matt 90 "silver".
The exhaust gets painted with Revell Matt 78 "panzer grey".
For more contrast i paint the outer surface of the tracks with Matt 91 "iron".
The same color is used to depict bare metal on various sections of the running gear.
The detail painting process is not as tedious as you might know it from other tank models. There are barely any tools and such things, which would require time to get painted.
The only challenge here are the tracks, which just require some time to get painted up. One does not have to be too exact here, since we are going to cover it with some mud later.
Next we are going to apply a coat of varnish on our model. For this i really like to use Vallejo "satin varnish" lately. This is a semi-gloss/semi-matte varnish.
This is trick i saw in one of the videos by Panzermeister36. He showed this to me and also explained very well, why one could use this kind of varnish:
On a glossy finish all the weathering processes we are going to apply are not really biting into the surface. The surface is simply too smooth.
On a matt surface the weathering would bite into the surface way too easily, which we don´t want either. We want the compromise between the two.
These Vallejo paints tend to be a bit tricky to use with the airbrush, at least for me. However, i got another good tip by yet another friend, Shane Smyth, who recommended to use the Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver. It works well indeed.
These two products in combination work well and allow for good results.
The mixing ration between the varnish and the Flow Improver is about 50-50.
The varnish should be applied in one thin and even coat.
Now we get finally to the weathering of the tank model. I always begin with an oil paint wash.
It tones down the colors, gives the vehicle a fairly grimy and dirty appearance and it accentuates all the details on the model very nicely. It is the basis of any weathering, at least thats how i handle it.
A lot of people ask me how i do this and what products i am using. There are a lot of pre-mixed washes out there by MIG, AK and all those brands.
I don´t have very high opinions on those products. They are good for beginners, so they know where to start and what to do. However, making your own washes is not hard at all.
What you can see here is a glass bowl and i already put some oil paint by 502 Abteilung in there. It is black and this color, called "industrial earth". The ratio between the two colors is roughly 50-50.
In order to turn that into a wash i will thin it down with ordinary lighter fuel.
It is very inexpensive and dries super fast. I simply add a fair amount of it to the oil paints. There is no certain mixing ratio involved here, i just add the fuel until it looks right.
Now i mix it, so the paint can dissolve.
It looks very dark to me, i think i should add a bit more fuel.
Normally i mix it in larger quantities and keep it in a lockable jar. Later i will fill in the remaining wash in there in order to preserve it.
You have to keep in mind that the lighter fuel is very volatile. It dries up very quickly.
Now we can apply the wash on our model. There is not much to say here. Just put it on evenly everywhere. You can see the details popping up immediately.
The model also becomes a bit darker overall. It simulates dirt and grime.
The temporary result does not look that great, but this is normal. It always requires some reworking.
The cool thing about this wash is how fast it dries on the model. The lighter fuel is simply very volatile. Make sure your work place is well ventilated.
Another thing i really like about this wash is the possibility to reactivate it. If you moisten a brush with some fuel you can remove the excess wash very easily.
This is exactly what we are going to do now, in order to give the model a better and even look. As you can see there are a few nasty blotches and it pooled in a few places in a fairly ugly way. This requires some reworking.
To remove the excess wash you can use a soft brush, Q-Tips or some kitchen paper.
Thats how the model looks like after the removal of the excess wash. I like the way it looks now. It looks dirty and grimy. The details are nicely accentuated, too. This is exactly the look i was going for.
This works so nicely, because the wash can be reactivated with some fresh lighter fuel. Therefore the excess can be removed without problems.
As you can see the semi-gloss finish became pretty matt and much darker in the process. This saves us from using a matt varnish. It has indeed a lot of advantages to work with a semi-gloss varnish in the first place.
I won´t apply any further weathering effects on this model, like heavy chipping or rust streaks. On average these vehicles had only a few days at the front, actually just a few hours. Then they would return to the depot for general overhaul.
It does not make any sense to apply any special wear and tear weathering effects on the model. It would go too far.
However, what i like to do is drybrushing the model a bit with Revell Matt 91 "iron". It generates a light metallic glare on the model.
I simply like the look of that. This is not to be confused with a chipping effect or something like that.
All it does is imitating a metal object, just to fool the eye.
Thats how you do drybrushing: You dip a soft and dry brush into the paint, then you rub off most of the paint on some kitchen paper. You do that until there are only a few paint pigments left on your brush.
Then you can start to gently brush on the paint on your model.
I don´t know if the camera is able to pick up the effect. Anyway, the surface starts to get a light metallic shine and this feels very realistic to me.
I swipe my brush all over the model. It looks awesome on these rivet heads and around the edges. It is a pretty cool effect, which i apply on all my tank models.
Before we can start with the dust and mud effects we have to do another thing first: The vehicle features at the front and the back a lamp.
The kit does not feature clear lenses for the lamps, so we have to make our own.
For that you can use Micro Kristal Klear by Microscale Industries. It works pretty well. It is a white and viscous paste, which dries up perfectly clear.
It is easy to fill it in here.
It needs about a day to dry. You have to put your model aside, but it is effective. I like the results.
Now we can deal with the dust and mud effects for our tank. I usually like to start with a light dust effect.
For this i am going to use some earth from my garden. As you can see it is very fine material and the color is pretty light.
Of course you can use pastel chalks or such things. The airbrush can be used as well, if you spray on some light brown color very gently.
There are various ways to do it, i personally like to use the earth from my garden. It is cheap, looks good and very forgiving if you mess it up.
I am going to mix the earth with some wood glue. You don´t need a lot of glue here, a couple of drops will do the job.
Then we thin it all down with water and turn it into a wash. It is not too dissimilar from what you would do with pigments or paints.
In order to make it easier to apply i also add one drop of cleaning agent to the mixture. It breaks the surface tension of the water, so our "garden earth wash" runs smoothly into the recessed areas of the model.
As you can see it is heavily thinned down, just as it is supposed to be. Now we apply it to our model in no special manner. Just put it everywhere without too much care taken.
Right now it is not important how it looks, we take care of that later. Now we have to put it on first.
After drying the dust wash looks like this. Of course this is not the effect we are going for, right now it looks very random, not very realistic and it is way too much anyway.
The interesting feature of this technique is again the fact that you can reactivate it. Then you brush it off until you like it.
I am going to use this soft, wide brush for this. First i am dipping it into water, so it is a bit wet. Then you can brush off the excess dust until you like it.
Thats the cool thing about this technique: If you don´t like it at all you can wipe it off entirely again. It is impossible to ruin your model.
It is interesting to note that you usually need several passes when it comes to brushing off the dust.
Once the surface becomes wet the effect pretty much vanishes for the time being, you can see what you have done only after it could dry up. Because of that you will need several passes.
This is no problem, it is good actually. It allows you to achieve some pretty fine dust effect nuances.
In my opinion this is a very simple method, which does not require excessive amounts of time, tools and materials. It allows you to create some pretty convincing dust and mud effects very easily even with a small budget.
Now it looks much better than before, but it is not yet perfect. I don´t like the dust accumulation on the roof at all. I have to give it a second pass and remove a bit more dust there.
You can repeat this as often as you like. You can also go back and add some dust again if you wiped off too much of it in the process.
You can work around it for a long time until you reach the point where you like it. There is no certain point where you have to stop.
Just keep going until you like it. As we all know this may be different for each person. Some people like their models very dusty, others prefer a fairly clean look.
Of course it does also depend on the vehicle itself and where it was used and how much dust is realistic for it.
I would not do this for a vehicle, which is set in a winter scene. The color of the dust is too light for it.
It is suitable as a basic weathering approach for everything else, even for autumn scenes and such things.
Thats how the model looks like the second pass. Now i like it. It is pretty dusty, but not too much. The dust accumulation on this skid back here is interesting and quite realistic. The model looks now dusty and used.
In my opinion this effect can not be achieved in an equally care-free way with pastel chalks, pigments and such things. It works well to use real earth.
A tank from the First World War also needs some mud. That is the next thing we are going to do. We will put that around the running gear.
Here i have some darker and fairly coarse earth from my garden. We will mix it in a very similar way like we did with the dust before.
Again we use wood glue and water. The difference is the thickness of the mud. We add much more wood glue and less water to the mixture.
What we get here is a fairly sticky mud paste, which we can smear on our model pretty easily with an old brush.
As you can see this is way too thin, it should be a bit thicker than that. I still have some earth left, let´s add a bit more to the mixture.
Much better now. Alright, now we apply it on our model in a much more selective way than before. We focus around the running gear.
We won´t go in later and remove it again, it will stay where we put it.
It makes sense to think about where mud would accumulate on the vehicle, and where it would not. This is essential.
I makes sense to have a look at photos of the real vehicles, so you develop a feeling where the mud needs to go.
When it comes to a tank from WW1 you can not do it the wrong way, except putting on not enough mud. Because of that i would say, lets get to it!
Additionally we apply some more chunky mud lumps. We simply wipe the brush off on the edges of the model, which creates these mud lumps.
For that you can use the half-dried mud paste we used before. It remains usable for a while.
That way you can create the heavy mud chunks fairly easily.
After this could dry up we can move on and make the mud on the running gear a bit more interesting. For that you can use glossy varnish and oil paints.
The application of the glossy varnish is easy to understand: It creates a fresh, wet mud effect.
The oil paint is used to change the color of the mud here and there a bit. Of course you can again use pigments and such things for this, but in my opinion these oil paints are very efficient. You can weather dozens, if not a hundred models with one tube of oil paint. I don´t think this is possible with pigments for example.
As a model builder you probably already have some glossy varnish at your hands anyway. Again, this technique is very basic and simple.
Let´s start off with the glossy varnish. I apply it on some of the thicker mud chunks to give them a fresh and wet look.
It is easy to overdo this, so you better just apply it on a few chosen mud chunks instead of everywhere.
Because of that i am using a fairly small brush, as it keeps me from overdoing it.
The tracks receive a complete coat of glossy varnish, because the tracks are in constant contact with the muddy surface and have no time to dry up while the tank is on the move.
To finish it off we are going to use the oil paint now. It is the color "industrial earth" by 502 Abteilung. I put some of it on this kitchen paper. It has a very dark, grimy hue.
It is an ideal color to add further mud effects to our running gear.
I apply it in the following way: I dab on some of the oil paint here and there.
You can do this fairly randomly if you want. Next i am using some lighter fuel, which i have in this jar, dip the brush into it and streak down the oil paint.
This creates some interesting mud streaks and allows the oil paint to bite into the surface pretty well. One could tint all the mud effects we have done this way. It has its uses.
In this case we don´t want that. We just want to discolor some areas of the running gear and the mud.
The cool thing about the lighter fuel is how fast it dries. It allows the oil paint to dry to the touch very quickly, so we don´t have to worry about wiping it away accidentally.
This finishes the painting and weathering of this tank. As you could see i am using very simple techniques and basic materials.
I think most of you have access to some oil paints, glossy varnish, earth and wood glue to create such mud effects.
Of course you can also do it with dozens of pigments and oil paints and various other weathering products, but in my opinion mud is best depicted with real earth. At least that is my take on it.
This finishes the third part of this building review series. In Part IV we will deal with the diorama.
The figures got done in Part II already, the vehicle is finished, so i hope i can start working on the diorama soon.
So far, so good. I hope you found this part of the building review just as interesting and informative as the others. See you again in the next video, your Hamilkar Barkas.
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